SRT80 actuators

The SRT80 are actuators based on 80ST servo motors, 80×80 aluminum profiles, and a special ballscrew that allows a travel of 220mm (compared to about 130mm for the OpenSFX).

Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem

Want to support this project ?

For each step, there is a dedicated channel on the Discord to help you (go to SRT80 ENGLISH after choosing the language in verify-first.

Summary :

  1. How to start
  2. How it works
  3. Shopping list
  4. Wiring
  5. Driver settings
  6. Code
  7. 3D files
  8. Assembly
  9. FAQ

1) How to start

All the necessary documentation is available on this page. If you have any questions, the FAQ is there to answer them, and if you don’t find what you’re looking for, take a look at the Discord to find the whole community!

The SRT80s are very similar to the OpenSFX100 in their operation. The site is a source of additional information.

To succeed in this project, it is necessary to test your work at each step: the motors alone, the mechanism alone, then the two sets, then the whole on your simulator.

I reiterate the warning: Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem.

2) How it works

The SRT80 actuators are based on a ball screw with a ball nut on it. The ball nut moves up or down as the screw turns. The screw is attached to the shaft of a motor called a “servo motor”. The servo motor is controlled by a driver. The driver receives instructions from the arduino which tells it how many degrees to turn (pulse), and in which direction (dir).

It is the FlyPT software that retrieves the data from the game, and sends it to the Arduino.

The servo drivers are activated by the Arduino board. Once activated, the drivers emit a very slight aïgu noise, noise covered by the general operation of the simulator.

3) Shopping list

The shopping list is available here. The kit proposed by Industry&CNC is proposed in economic delivery for Europe (delivery by train, indicated by “seller’s shipping method”). This shipping method takes about one month (do not take into account the Aliexpress estimate). Please note that the tracking number provided by Industry&CNC will only be functional at the end of the transport.

Moreover, do not hesitate to contact me if the rates or the shipping costs are aberrant. We tried to offer the best rates on all means of delivery, but there may remain some errors related to the system.

The shopping list is separated in two parts: the first one indicating what is included in the kit, and the second one what is not, and must be ordered separately.

It gives the details of the parts needed to manufacture a cylinder. Industry&Cnc offers a discount on most of the items when you buy 4 of them.

“What is the difference between the A and C drivers?” Unlike C drivers, A drivers emit a high-pitched noise when they are active. This high-pitched noise is covered by the operation of the simulator.


4) Wiring

a) Driver and motor power supply

It is difficult to make a mistake in the wiring of the motor. This part is detailed on page 8 and 13 of the drivers manual.

b) Wiring between Arduino and driver

We reuse the pulse/dir connectors on the DB25 socket of each driver. On the arduino side we use a 5 pins GX12 connector.

Motor 1 Motor 2 Motor 3 Motor 4 DB25 PIN
STEP 8 9 10 11 3
DIR 4 5 6 7 4
ENA A0 A1 A2 A3 6
5V 5V 5V 5V 5V 9

Schematic :

Arduino Driver (prise DB25)
Pulse D2/D4/D6/D8 pin 3
Direction D3/D5/D7/D9 pin 4
Enable A0/A1/A2/A3 pin 6
5V 5V pin 9
Masse GND pin 14/5/10 (the three pins of each DB25 must be connected to ground)

For info: pin 13 of the Arduino is also a mass thanks to the code.

5) Drivers settings

The drivers, similar to AASD, have 200 parameters, fortunately you don’t need to change them all.

They are detailed on page 38 of the manual. This video shows how to modify the parameters.

I highly recommend testing the motor operation via flypt with the engine disassembled!

Parameter Value Explanation Comment
Pn001 4 Select the right motor, in this case an 80st-M02430 No need to use a more powerful motor
Pn002 2 Motor control mode 2 : position mode
Pn003 0 Activate/deactivate the driver 0: the driver is turned on by the arduino. 1: the driver is always on
Pn008 300 Torque limit
Pn009 -300 Torque limit
Pn051 1200 Maximum motor speed This parameter manages a little the “violence” of the simulator, thus to increase with parsimony
Pn098 6 Pulse multiplier Do not put another value!
Pn109 1 Filtering parameter See the manual
Pn110 30 Filtering parameter See the manual
Pn113 20 Filtering parameter See the manual
Pn114 10 Filtering parameter See the manual
Pn115 15 Filtering parameter See the manual

6) Code

At this stage, you have your motors wired to the Arduino. Before loading the FlyPT code, I advise you to flash this test code (how to flash a code). It performs the following steps in order (in a loop starting with motor 1):

  • motor 1 : turn half a turn clockwise and half a turn counterclockwise
  • motor 2 : turn two half-turns clockwise and two half-turns counter-clockwise
  • motor 3 : turn three half-turns clockwise and three half-turns counter-clockwise
  • motor 4 : turn four half-turns clockwise and four half-turns counter-clockwise
  • 10-second pause

If the test code works correctly, you can flash the arduino with the specific code and use the dedicated FlyPT profile.

To load the FlyPT profile, launch FlyPt (v3.4.2), right click>file>open and select the profile.

To finalize the installation, click on the “Output::serial” tile, then on “update ports” and in the “port” list select the arduino port. Then click on ” connect “. In the main menu, click on the tile of the simulation of your choice, then click on connect.

The FlyPT website contains documentation that you should read if you want to take advantage of it.

Once you have your actuators working and your installation is running smoothly, I also recommend watching this video to understand how to use the filters.


7) 3D files

The 3D files are available on Thingiverse. If you don’t own a 3D printer, Industry&CNC is providing a set of 3D printed parts here. They are the only ones allowed to sell my designs.

You will also find a step file which will allow you to integrate the cylinders in your CAD.

Each file contains a printing instruction in the form xx-xx. The first number is the precision, the second the filling. For example 02-30 means accuracy of 0.2 and filling at 30%. It is also useful to double the thickness of the walls.

The mention “support” indicates that supports are needed…

I also recommend to activate the adhesion to avoid warping (part that comes off the support).

I recommend using the Cura slicer.

All the parts are in the ideal orientation for printing.

The box containing the Arduino is available separately here.

8) Assembly


9) FAQ

My electrical installation is in 110V, what to do (ex : Canada)

A priori the servos are designed to work with 220v. You can buy a 110v>220v converter (Amazon), or set the drivers to accept 110V, at your own risk of course.



Can I use this actuator in Push-Pull mode?

Yes, just screw in a 22mm ball joint like a POS22.


Why don’t I see any information about the emergency stop button?

Basically there are two failures that can occur: either the motor starts to turn endlessly in one direction, or in the other. In one case, the slider comes to a stop on the linear bearing support, and blocks the motor: no dramatic consequences. In the other case, the slider can break the linear bearing support, then come out of the rod. This is less funny. The problem is that the motor is so fast that you probably won’t have time to cut… That’s why I don’t usually include it in my setups.


Why an Arduino Uno instead of the Leonardo used on the OpenSFX? 

Because the Uno is cheaper, easier to find, and also because it has a USB type A connector that is more resistant than the micro USB of the Leonardo. Moreover, the computing power is the same.


Is the SRT80 compatible with Thanos controller ? 


I've been passionate about cars since I was a kid! I learned the multiple variations of the Skyline R34 through the Gran Tursimo series, until I discovered GTR2 at the wheel of a keyboard. A few years later, I plunged back into Sim Racing with a G27 which made me enter the DIY world. Always looking for an immersion out of reach in reality, I develop projects that I take care to make accessible to any 3D printer owner!
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4 thoughts on “SRT80 actuators

  1. Hi, Thanks for this.. Im planning to build this one.. 🙂
    But can i ask, what do you mean?

    “Caution : Voltages, torques and speeds are important. Take all necessary precautions. I am not responsible for any problem”

    Can you please explain more? Or Which part on build process should i concern this?


    1. Actually, if you follow the steps, there isn’t so much risk because in the worst case, you will have the motor rotating at high rates…alone. But of course if you put yours fingers in the wall plug, I won’t be responsible.

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