SRT100 actuators : Wiring

The wiring is quite simple. Each driver is controlled by two wires : pulse and direction. Once the driver received a “pulse” signal, the motor will moves a step.

If you have three actuators instead of four, you just have to not wire the fourth motor. The “direction” signal indicates in which way the motor will turn. So we need two wires between each driver and the Arduino :

Driver HBS86H Arduino UNO
Pulse + (M1) D2
Dir + (M1) D3
Pulse + (M2) D4
Dir + (M2) D5
Pulse + (M3) D6
Dir + (M3) D7
Pulse + (M4) (if using 4 actuators) D8
Dir + (M4) (if using 4 actuators) D9

Each Pulse- and Dir- pins are linked to the Arduino ground.

 

Each driver is linked to the power supply by two wires. AC1 goes to +, and AC2 goes to -.

WARNING THE DRIVER SWITCHES MUST BE POSITIONNED AS FOLLOWED (for driver v3):

Switchs Position
SW1 OFF
SW2 OFF
SW3 ON
SW4 ON
SW5 OFF
SW6 OFF
SW7 OFF
SW8 OFF

 

The motors are wired to the drivers by 4 wires :

Driver HBS86H Nema 34 Motor
A+ Black
A- Red
B+ Yellow
B- Blue

Position encoders allow to detect the position of the motors, that is used to correct the position if needed. Each encoder is wired by 6 wires :

Driver Encodeur
PB- Jaune
PB+ Vert
PA- Noir
PA+ Bleu
VCC Rouge
Ground Gris/blanc

Here is the full wiring schematic. Once again, the most important thing is to correctly set the driver’s switches. If not set properly, the actuator could get damaged by exceeding the maximum travel.

Once the wiring is done, you can link the Arduino to FlyPT and check if is works without the motor mounted on the actuators.

I've been passionate about cars since I was a kid! I learned the multiple variations of the Skyline R34 through the Gran Tursimo series, until I discovered GTR2 at the wheel of a keyboard. A few years later, I plunged back into Sim Racing with a G27 which made me enter the DIY world. Always looking for an immersion out of reach in reality, I develop projects that I take care to make accessible to any 3D printer owner!
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